Lisa Haushofer (University of Toronto)
University of Toronto and the Culinaria Research Centre
This chapter will follow the emergence of yeast as a health food, and re-evaluate the factors
which contributed to its enormous popularity. By closely examining the place of Hawk’s
“commissioned” research in the campaign, it will propose a more nuanced account of the interplay
between the product and science, specifically between product marketing strategies and nutritional
research, which developed during this period. I will revisit the role of vitamins in the Fleischmann’s
Yeast story, and place them in the context of the history of nutritional theories and commercial
nutritional products developed in the previous chapters. By doing so, I will suggest a new
interpretation of the role of vitamins, not only in the making of Fleischmann’s Yeast, but in the
history of nutrition and medicine more broadly. In order to do this, I will take seriously the
marketing strategies developed by the Fleischmann company, the J. Walter Thompson agency, and
the advertising community of the 1910s and 1920s. But rather than regard them alone responsible
for the achievement of turning an unattractive lump of fungus into a desired consumer item, I will
consider their interplay with scientific theories and concepts of health. These new marketing
techniques were developed at a time when a medical scientific orthodoxy had largely consolidated
their authority, and gained considerable sway over the makers of proprietary medicines through the
1906 Food and Drug Act and the Council on Pharmacy and Chemistry of the American Medical
Association. While it might be tempting to place Fleischmann’s Yeast into the same analytical
category as late nineteenth and early twentieth-century patent medicines, doing so obscures the
subtle ways by which, through the interplay of marketing strategies and scientific theory, a different
space was carefully carved out, one that simultaneously brought together, and set itself apart from,
the realms of food and medicine. The marketing category of a health food, complete with an
extended and increasingly abstract conception of health, and a health food consumer market,
materialized more concretely than ever.
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